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Magnets: (looks like) double stacked rectangle radio shack mags every 60 degrees so total of 12
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Spool body magnets attached to looks about 1.5” diameter
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Power wire: 28 awg 700 feet
Trigger wire: 30 awg 400 feet
3<SUP>rd</SUP> wire: 30 awg 400 feet
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Winding looks about 5-6” wide and about 4” tall
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Capacitor: 47000 uf
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2 X NPN Transistors: MPS 8099
1 X PNP Transistor: MPS 8599
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1 X 10 ohm resistor
2 X 2.2k ohm resistor
1 X 3.3k ohm resistor
1 X 1N914 diode
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1 X Bridge rectifier
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1 X Hall Effect Transistor: Bipolar 3030 Hall IC
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Relay details:?????????????????????????????????????????? ??<O:p></O:p>
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Comments from Mike:
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No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound
I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not.
If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.<O:p></O:p>
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play with sw1 timing

**I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)<O:p></O:p>
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you must get your window motor running,
then we can talk about charge timing and unity.
study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.
I use (28 gauge .012 in. main), (30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)<O:p></O:p>
I get a little over 40 ohms each<O:p></O:p>
the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.<O:p></O:p>
I must say that my stator coil is wider<O:p></O:p>
i will post a picture of it soon<O:p></O:p>
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Direct measurements from mikes spun by hand:-<O:p></O:p>
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4.5v ac main winding<O:p></O:p>
2.2v ac trigger winding<O:p></O:p>
2.8 v ac third winding<O:p></O:p>
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now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods-<O:p></O:p>
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I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+<O:p></O:p>
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Troubleshooting Tips:-<O:p></O:p>
monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p></O:p>
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@dom I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand<O:p></O:p>
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try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results<O:p></O:p>
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-Mike mentioned just use main coil and see if you get spikes coming only from that, but I'm not sure if that would work since i have the trigger coil disconnected, I'll try anyway.<O:p></O:p>
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Lets build and then compare results
I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.

Hope this helps

cheers mike<O:p></O:p>
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