Thread: Your Basic Coil
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:19 PM
gyula gyula is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 820
Well, if you let the circuit setup in the ON state as you showed it at the start of the video (no motor load and the voltage difference is 0.8V), the batteries would keep charging the cap bank for a very, very long time because the some nano or some microAmper load current for the batteries via the LED towards the cap bank is not a real load for the batteries. Several days or even weeks may pass when you could measure some mV voltage drop from the batteries under this continuous supply of charge current into the cap bank.

Remember: the two batteries are the main active source of current in your setup, the cap bank is also a load for the batteries. If you by-pass (i.e. short circuit) the LED, the resistor and the trifilar coils in your setup with a piece of wire, then the cap bank would have the same voltage across it as the batteries have but the some nano or microAmper charge current would still go into the cap bank from the batteries because of the self discharge nature of those caps. However, this tiny load current is quasi nothing for the two batteries for a long time.

You wrote: "So the resistance of the combined coil and resistor plus the slow leakage of the led will keep the battery and caps from discharging??"

My answer is: it is the batteries which would keep the capacitor bank from discharging, okay? The LED and the series resistors are simple current limiting components in this process.

You wrote: "So the led turns off after the caps are charged up to max memory and the batteries nor the caps will never drain or loose charge??"

My answer is: On the long run the batteries themselves would also discharge of course.

Let's put this process in another view: suppose you replace the LED with a 15 V Zener diode in your circuit. This diode would maintain a continuous 15 V drop across itself (this is its job, right?) while the charging current would still flow towards the cap bank from the batteries but this time the cap bank would be able to charge up to 17.36-15=2.36 V only, okay? And in case you would keep this circuit working for a long time (no load across the cap bank, just its self-discharging), the moment the battery voltage would go down below 15 V (after some months) the cap bank would discharge to near zero voltage, understand? Should you test this, use a current limiting series resistor for the Zener because it may get burnt from the intial high current if the cap bank had zero voltage in it at switch-on.

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