Now read the story this way now in red, You will see how everything gets confused by all the posts in between. This is something I learned in the military, how to get the answers. I did change the Neo magnets out in my motor and it does make a big difference, "so no neos" in this one please. Get the facts straight and you will build this motor. Focus on what Mike said or "Fail" . Do not assume anything , Mike is thinking out of the box, Neo Magnets suck in this motor, trigger circuit now works fine in my set up, Next the SS solid state switch.
John

<O:p
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O:p</O:p
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity
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I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.<O:p</O:p
I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. <O:p</O:p
Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O:p</O:p
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity<O:p</O:p
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O:p</O:p
I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing <O:p</O:p
I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. <O:p</O:p
This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O:p</O:p
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.<O:p</O:p
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing<O:p</O:p
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O:p</O:p
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O:p</O:p
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O:p</O:p
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p</O:p
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Now read it this way.<O:p</O:p
John<O:p</O:p
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The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O:p</O:p
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity<O:p</O:p
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O:p</O:p
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unityWhen you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O:p</O:p
I learned alot from these illustrations, I think look at the commutator to see the timing the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O:p</O:p
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.<O:p</O:p
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O:p</O:p
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O:p</O:p
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O:p</O:p
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p</O:p
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to be continued in next post...