After watching you guys playing around with inverters and such, I thought I better share another method of approaching the problem.

I think everyone should take a step back and look closer at this before playing around with those higher voltage approaches just yet.

It has to be recognised that the higher voltages will burn up the plugs at a faster rate, and it also has to be remembered that your tests are being done in open air, not under pressure as it happens inside a combustion chamber.

You may be going a step too far at this point by looking at amplifying the spark in open air to achieve a white plasma. Once you pressurise the spark it behaves quite differently.

I'm not saying my way is right, just that it should be considered.

Today I conducted a few tests to see what would happen to the normal blue spark under pressure, as it normally occurs inside a combustion chamber, then I added a few different types of non powered spark "intensifiers" to the equation and watched what happened once pressure was applied to the spark created by each. The results are interesting.

I set my pressure bell up on the front of my old test car, hooked a small air compressor to the car battery and attached it to the pressure bell.

I then disconnected the plug lead from number 1 cylinder, removed the spark plug from number 1 cyl and replaced it with a dud plug just to block the hole.

I fitted the plug I normaly run in number 1 cyl to the pressure bell, and attached the plug lead to it, running straight out of the top of the distributor.

This made it possible to run the engine(on 7 cylinders) and view the sparking events as they occurred through the pressure bell window.

I started the engine and let it idle, then tried to view the firing plug through the window of the bell. At idle the spark was quite hard to see due to the angle of the plug, I was basically looking at the bottom of the earth strap. I could barely make out the sparking events in normal air pressure.

Next I turned on the air pump and built the pressure up to 100psi and applied it to the bell. It was at this point that I noticed a leak at the viewing window of the bell, this wouldn't allow me to pressurise above 75psi in the actual testing cell.

Anyway, after 50psi the spark was quite evident yet still appeared to be blue in colour. At 75psi it was quite a bit brighter again, yet still appeared blue. At pressures below 50psi the spark lost its brightness and became hard to see, as in the open air tests.

Next I fitted my little $3.50 home made "intensifier" and started the engine.
I noted that I could see the spark a little easier in normal air pressure, it was definately more powerful as compared to the unaided sparking events. The sparks were still mostly blue, but were flecked with red/purple.

I built up the air pressure to 100psi as before, then applied it to the bell.
The spark did the same as in the previous test, yet was noticeably white and quite a bit brighter. I also noted that it hung on longer when the pressure was reduced to below 50psi. It was definately white.

Next I fitted an IKAT/ICAT spark enhancer, like what they sell for use on motorcycle engines. It appeared to behave pretty much the same as my home made intensifier. I built up the air and applied it, as before, and it displayed a white spark, definately brighter than a standard sparking event.

Next I fitted a Lectran Pulsar, it did the same thing again, as did my home made intensifier and the same thing as the ICAT, I have to admit though, the Lectran did appear to display a brighter white spark than the others, it appeared to hold on longer and stay brighter at below 50psi too.

My home made intensifier may need to have the gap altered as I was running it at about 7-8mm, it may work better at a wider gap setting. It would also need a Farady cage made up to capture the RFI as well.

My reason for adding this information here is that I feel that by using inverters etc, it may all be in vain, as you can get "into the white" with a lesser spark once you pressurise it above 50psi.

I believe that once you add HHO to the equation, along with a water vapour, you should be able to successfully achieve the desired result without wasting precious time over-engineering the matter.