I apologize for not responding sooner to your request for a picture of my Smack Booster. I have been participating in so many threads that I rarely have time to go beyond page 1 or 2 in the forums. If you, or anyone else, have any other questions, it would be a good idea to pm me to provide a link to the post where the question resides.
I did photograph my Modified Smack Booster right after building it, so it was relatively easy to convert the bmp format to a jpg file in a reduced size, which I have posted in the Public folder of my Windows Sky Drive. By the way, Sky Drive is an excellent place to post your photos and documents. You get 5 gigabytes of space for free. Here's the photo:
My Smack Booster .jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive
You can see how I modified the top cap so that the blowout device is attached at top center, and the quick-connect hose fitting comes out horizontally. The "ring" for the blowout device is simply a 1 1/4" endcap with the closed end cut from it, leaving the ring that you see. What isn't shown on the ring is that I made a fine saw cut across the diameter of the ring, to a depth that equals the width of a stainless steel hose clamp which I use to assure that the cap stays nicely in place. The cut side goes down, of course, when you place the ring on the blowout tube, and you place the ring so that it holds a double layer of plastic sandwich bag material tightly against the opening of the blowout tube. You will also notice that instead of super-gluing the bubbler to the booster (as suggested in the Smack plans), I opted to use 3/4" conduit clamps, which are made for conduit that is 1" outside diameter - same as the nylon bubbler hose. The screws holding the clamps on are stainless steel sheet metal screws (#8 x 1/2", if I remember correctly). I ground the sharp tip off each of the screws, and used a drill stop device to drill only as deep as the thickness of the bottom end cap and the top end cap adaptor, so the pvc pipe is not compromised and there are no leaks. I also later replaced the quick-connect fitting with a brass fitting because I didn't like the loose feel of the quick connect. When installing the unit in my 1998 Mazda B2500 pickup truck, there was only one place under the hood where it would have fit, and that was too crowded. It would have been very difficult to service the unit, and I didn't like the idea of installing it so close to the alternator, so I opted to install it above the front bumper at the center of the grille. This has worked out great, and makes servicing a snap. It also keeps the booster cooler than it would be in the engine compartment. As it is located a bit more than 3 feet from the intake point (just before the butterfly valve), I installed a second bubbler device just 12 inches or so from the intake point. The second bubbler is taller, and larger diameter, than the one on the booster.
I see that your booster is already completed, and it looks fine. If you want to incorporate the blowout device, it would still be a simple matter to prepare another end cap. The blowout device is a failsafe type of device that protects your booster in the event of a worst-case scenario where the HHO gas ignites
inside the booster. If you haven't already seen the video where this device is tested under worst-case conditions, you can view it here:
YouTube - #81 - VSPB Cell blowout test 1
Once again, sorry for the delay in responding. I hope that you, and others, will find this post interesting and of some value.
Best regards to all,
Rickoff
