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Old 02-21-2012, 06:38 AM
evolvingape evolvingape is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 164
Turgo Turbine Part 2

Parts list:

SM20 Bolt on Hub, Disc Diameter 270mm, Bush size 2012, 33.66 (1 off)

SM Bolt on Hubs

2012 Taper Bush, Bore Size 25mm, 6.26 (1 off)

2012 Taper Bushes

Flanged Bearing Unit 4 Bolt Cast 25mm, 9.77 ea, (2 off @ 19.54)

Flanged Bearing Unit 4 Bolt Cast 25mm

25mm Axle with pocket keyway and circlip groove 30.95 (1 off)


Alternatively get a custom shaft from the horses mouth:

Kart Components - Axles - Copper Axles - Hollow Pocket Key Axles

Turgo spoons:

Box of 24 Red Soap Dishes Individually Wrapped | eBay

So what we have above is an economical way to build a heavy duty Turgo turbine. I have opted for the hub because it will last a very long time and is the right size, The taper lock bush is very secure on its own and should not slip but can be enhanced for torque transmission to shaft with a key. The bearings are 4 bolt flange mount so you fit them facing each other on opposite sides of the housing, you have to use two because it will hold the shaft rigid, a single bearing will float as they are self aligning.

The rotor is going to be heavy compared to a plastic injection molded one, but the mass will function as a flywheel, and it's a small price to pay considering the robustness and cost of the design.

The shaft, being a common part in the Kart industry will be easy to replace and is a bargain at the price, if you are going for the single rotor horizontal Turgo design you will only need to use 200mm of the shaft or thereabouts, which has a keyway and a circlip groove (to stop the shaft dropping through the bearing should the grub screw fail).

The spoons are the hard part, I have just bought a box of the soap dishes, I plan to use them as a master. Cut some rectangular stainless box section to size for strength and attachment via double bolt to holes drilled in the hub, and then cast polyurethane fast cast (with suitable fillers for strength and waterproofing) around them to form the finished spoons. I will be using the soap dishes as masters to give me close to the correct shape. The added bonus is that once I am happy with the performance and design I can make a pattern and then cast 24 in one go, producing a complete set in about 30 minutes, which will be handy if your friends like your turbine and want to buy one

I myself will be deviating slightly from what I have described here due to my circumstances. I will be mounting multiple Turgo rotors vertically with a bearing and hub each end. This is to keep water out of the bearing, which would be at the bottom in a multiple horizontal rotor system. If your just going for a single horizontal rotor there is no problem suspending the rotor from two opposing bearings above.

I will be using stainless steel discs bolted between my end hubs to mount the spoons on. This is because I have them already cut as they are from the cancelled HELT project of a couple of years ago. Finally I have found a use for them!

I will probably be using 3 Turgo rotors because I have a plain 300mm shaft in 25mm diameter already, and 3 is all I think I can fit on it. If you go with the Kart axle you will have a 1 meter shaft which would probably easily handle 10 rotors.

Once the rotor is constructed, degreased, and loctited permanently in place I will be coating it in either spray paint, clear varnish or some type of waterproof epoxy to prevent it rusting. Seems a sensible option.

Later on when Gasifier powered Steam boilers, powering a Pulsomenter, come on line the additional rotors will be how to use all that mass flow.

I will be using a DC500 PMA because once again I already have it left over from the HELT, the issue here is that water turbines typically operate at between 200 300 RPM, so in order to achieve charging voltage I am going to have to construct a gearbox, which will be pulleys and belts, to step up my RPM from 200 300 range to 2000 3000 RPM range. This is a ratio of 10:1.

It would be most useful if we had a DIY PMA design along the lines of windmill's using many coils, this would mean that we could produce the same power without having to use a gearbox. There is quite an interest in custom PMA's for wind turbines so lot's of information out there about it.

One thing to mention is that gasifiers are particularly interesting because they produce two outputs, the heat from the combustion chamber can be used to run a boiler by sleeving a double wall, the same principle the kelly kettle works on, and the combustible gases produced can also be burnt through a nozzle as with traditional boiler technology to run a second boiler. This will allow you to run two Pulsometers, which will provide much more mass flow from just a single closed loop water reservoir, and the resultant water can be injected into separate rotors on the same shaft, in effect doubling your power generation from the gasifier.

One thing I want to point out is that the suggestion of burning a HHO torch to refill the boiler should be considered carefully. It remains to be established if the isostatic pressure inside the boiler will extinguish the flame, if it does so then the pressure will attempt to move up the HHO feed line and into your bubbler. A non return valve may be effective in this scenario, but much testing needed SAFELY before this becomes viable. The idea is not to heat the boiler purely with HHO, but to burn HHO at a rate that replaces the steam being used. Steam injectors will remain the most efficient way of filling your boiler for now, but this is also about developing new technologies and techniques.

And finally some links:

Steam powered Generator Steam Powered Generator - YouTube

1/2" / 12.7mm STAINLESS STEEL SQUARE TUBE / BOX -750mm | eBay

Mold Making - Mass Casting Complex Parts (w/ parting line) - YouTube

RTV Silicone Rubber

Polyurethane Fast Cast Resin

3m Glass Bubbles : Microspheres

Glass Fibre Reinforcements : Composite Materials

Bearings | Oil Seals | Rotary Shaft Seals | Metric | R23 Double Lip | R21 Single Lip |

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